DIY

Issue No. 102 —

Barrel Aged Negroni

You may have heard of Jef­frey Mor­gen­thaler. You may have even heard about his exper­tise in bar­rel aging cock­tails. I had, and he was one of the major inspi­ra­tions for my trip out to Port­land. I vis­it­ed his bar at Clyde Com­mon to get on a first name basis with one of his bar­rel aged Negro­nis. Well worth the trip and well worth the effort to recre­ate it in my own bar. As a cock­tail enthu­si­ast, it’s hard not to get excit­ed about bar­rel aging cock­tails, and the Negroni is the per­fect can­di­date for some age-induced round­ing and mel­low­ing. Not only does bar­rel aging smooth out your cock­tail, it also soft­ens the mouth feel. You’ll def­i­nite­ly pick up woody and vanil­la fla­vors from the oak as well. The cock­tail also oxi­dizes over time which changes the fla­vor pro­file, bring­ing out some nut­ty flavors.

The Negroni is a hard sell at my bar. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, peo­ple don’t tend to order gin drinks, let alone gin drinks with Cam­pari. Don’t slaugh­ter me in the com­ments for this depar­ture from the tra­di­tion­al recipe, but I adapt­ed my Negroni recipe to tone it down in an effort to ease my patrons into this bit­ter clas­sic. This could also trans­late well to a sit­u­a­tion where you’re enter­tain­ing guests at home. I went from the clas­sic equal parts recipe to a stepped up gin alteration:

  • 2 oz Bro­kers Gin
  • 3/4 oz Campari
  • 3/4 oz Noil­ly Pratt Sweet Vermouth.

Again, to try and tone it down, I chose the Bro­kers because it’s a bit smoother and creami­er than a dri­er gin like Beefeater or Tan­quer­ay. If you don’t have Bro­kers you could also use Bom­bay Sap­phire or Citadelle. I also use the cheap­er and sweet­er Noil­ly Pratt instead of a Punt e Mes for the very same rea­sons. You may want to exper­i­ment a bit before aging a batch yourself.

Bar­rel aging is a log­i­cal next step in mel­low­ing the sharp tones of the gin and Cam­pari mar­riage. For bar­rel aging my Negroni, I pur­chased a new 2 liter charred white oak bar­rel from Cop­per Fox Dis­tillery, but you can find many sources online for bar­rels, and you may even find a local sell­er near you. Before pour­ing your first batch into the bar­rel, you’ll need to fill the bar­rel with very hot water and let it soak for a few nights to swell up the oak staves, assur­ing you don’t have leaks. Once that’s done, sim­ply com­bine your ingre­di­ents in a large enough con­tain­er and fun­nel it into the bar­rel. Then, seal it up by replac­ing the bung tight­ly and let time do its thing.

Taste a sam­ple from your bar­rel every cou­ple weeks to check in on how rapid­ly the fla­vor is devel­op­ing and, while you’re at it, turn the bar­rel a quar­ter turn to shift the liq­uid into con­tact with a fresh sur­face of charred oak. My first batch in the new bar­rel aged quick­ly, pick­ing up a lot of oak fla­vors. That batch was ready in a month, but the sec­ond batch took two months to mature, and I expect my next batch to take even longer to pick up the bar­rel’s flavor.

When the Negroni tastes just right to you, emp­ty out the bar­rel and trans­fer the batch to a glass con­tain­er to halt the aging process. Remem­ber to strain your Negroni when decant­i­ng from the bar­rel. There will be sed­i­ment. I like to decant my Negroni into a bot­tle that’s easy to serve from so that it’s easy to mea­sure out the Negroni mix­ture with a jig­ger into a mix­ing glass. Then, sim­ply stir with ice and strain into a chilled coupe or cock­tail glass. Mist and gar­nish with an orange peel. Final­ly, enjoy your Negroni, enhanced by Moth­er Time.

Before you tuck away your bar­rel for next time, make sure to refill it with cool water to pre­vent it from dry­ing out.  It’s best to store it in a cool, damp place.

Bar­rel aging may seem like a lot of work, but it is well worth it for the impres­sive results, and it’s kind of fun. The cock­tail is fan­tas­tic and I’ve even turned a good hand­ful of my gin-averse patrons into Negroni enthu­si­asts, open­ing their bit­ter palettes and eyes to a whole new world. Cheers!

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